36 Hours in Cork, Ireland

WHILE Cork may officially be Ireland’s second city, don’t suggest that to one of its proud residents. The melodious reply — most likely delivered in a rich brogue sprinkled with gammin (Cork slang for Cork slang) — may contain playful swipes at that larger town over on the Irish Sea. But it’s this spark and warmth of Cork, a remnant of the city’s enduring rebel history, that captivate the visitor and — along with its picturesque setting along the River Lee and its dedication to the arts and good food and drink — make it a convincing rival to Dublin. On long summer days, Cork’s compact size makes it a perfect city to tour on foot, providing you’ve packed walking shoes and a bit of ambition for a few hilly climbs.